In this section, commonly used facial cosmetics, also called makeup, are specified.
The specification results from the observation of numerous makeup tutorials. To evaluate facial cosmetics in detail, they must be classified into categories. In this chapter, a classification approach, based on the effect and exact location of applied cosmetics, is proposed.
8.3.1 Specification of Facial Cosmetics
Facial cosmetics are mainly applied on female faces to increase their attractiveness.
Attractiveness is affected by youthfulness, symmetry [106] and averageness [115].
Youthfulness is composed of healthy, lively and also childlike characteristics [92]
(e.g. soft skin, large eyes and small nose). All three attributes can be influenced by facial cosmetics. Their positive effects on attractiveness is shown in [30].
The application of facial cosmetics can be split up into eight main steps. Those steps are defined based on the observation of numerous makeup tutorials used for constructing the database in Section 8.2. Those tutorials are provided by ordinary women as well as professional makeup artists. They present different ways to apply makeup ranging from every-day to more exclusive makeup. Table 8.1 summarizes the eight main makeup steps including associated used products and their impacts.
Those makeup steps form an 8-digit makeup code. Each makeup step can be applied with a slight or heavy amount, which is indicated in the makeup code by the digit 1 or 2. No application of makeup is indicated by the digit 0.
Table 8.1: Eight Makeup Steps Step Products Effect
Foundation (skin)
Foundation, concealer, powder.
Coverage of skin flaws and natural shadows; change of skin color, face and nose shape; reduction of shini- ness.
Cheek Bronzer, blush.
Emphasis and change of per- ceived position of cheek- bones; lively and youthful appearance.
Brow (eye- brow)
Eyebrow pencil.
Accentuation, shaping and change of perceived position of eyebrows; increase of con- trast.
Shadow (upper eyelid, eyebrow bone)
Eyeshadow. Emphasis of lid crease; in- crease of depth; change of perceived size and color of eyes.
Upper line (upper eye- lid)
Eyeliner, kajal.
Enhancement of contours;
change of perceived size of eyes; thickening of lashline.
Mascara (lashes)
Mascara, false lashes.
Increase of density, swing and length of lashes; illusion of bigger eyes.
Lower line (lower eye- lid)
Eyeliner, kajal.
Enhancement of contours;
change of perceived size of eyes.
Lips Lip liner,
lipstick, lip gloss.
Enhancement of contours;
change of perceived size, color and contrast; shini- ness.
8.3.2 Classification of Applied Facial Cosmetics
The application of facial cosmetics is classified by its application area and its effect on human perception.
8.3.2.1 Classification by facial subareas
The face is divided into its most significant subareas as skin, eyes and mouth. The makeup steps foundation and cheek belong to skin, whereas lips belong to mouth.
Most steps belong to the eye area, which are namely brow, shadow, upper line, mascara and lower line makeup.
Each subarea is considered separately. This gives insight concerning its sensitiveness
to facial cosmetics and its contribution to the overall results. For each subarea, the applied cosmetics are classified by their altering effect as described in the following.
8.3.2.2 Classification by impact on facial appearance
The effect of facial cosmetics depends on how much and in which way the perceived size and color of facial features are changed. Three main categories (see Table 8.2) were established after examining numerous makeup tutorials used in Section 8.2.
Figure 8.4 describes the classification of the applied cosmetics per facial subarea.
This allows the automated deduction of the categories based on the makeup code.
The highest makeup category of all steps belonging to a certain subarea defines the makeup category of this given subarea.
The classification of the eye area is performed as follows: If shadow, mascara or lower line are applied heavily, it leads to a classification of the eye area into the category ’heavy’, since those steps have a mask-alike or artificial effect. Heavy ap- plication of brow or upper line indicate the category ’intermediate’, since the shape of eyes is enhanced. If any makeup step in the eye area is applied slightly, it leads to a classification into the category ’slight’.
If the foundation or cheek makeup step is applied heavily, the skin area is classified into the category ’heavy’. Foundation uniforms, evens and flats the facial shape.
Natural shadows and marks are covered. Properly placed highlights change the ap- parent shape and size of facial features, e.g. nose. The cheek makeup step changes the perceived position, color and size of cheekbones. This leads to a distinction from the personal characteristics and therefore has an artificial or mask-alike effect.
There is no skin makeup category ’intermediate’.
The slight application of lipstick, lip liner or lip gloss enhances the contours and contrast of the mouth area and therefore leads to a classification into the category
’intermediate’. Heavy application of lip makeup however causes changes in size and shape and therefore leads to the category ’heavy’. There is no mouth makeup cate- gory ’slight’.
Table 8.2: Categories of the Impact of Facial Cosmetics Category Description
No No makeup applied, no effect
Slight Slight changes in color and perceived shape
Intermediate Strong enhancement of contours and char- acteristic features
Heavy Estrangement from personal characteris- tics, mask-alike and artificial
The makeup category of the face as a whole is equal to the highest category of the subareas. However, there is one special case, since the subareas’ categories contribute unequally to the face makeup category, mouth makeup has little impact on the overall perceived amount of makeup. Intermediate mouth makeup leads only to a makeup category ’slight’ for the face as a whole.